"Il y a deux visages," commented Aubert de Villaine, as he tasted the 2013 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, his own poetic way of observing the duality of this wine, both elegant and yet so intense. We tasted from two barrels. The first had an exquisite and very expressive bouquet with stunning tension and transparency, in my mind a clear level up from the Grands Echézeaux. The palate already has the florality and femininity of a this Grand Cru, but with the backbone one might discern in a Richebourg. The finish is extraordinarily long, while a second barrel from the warmer part of the cellar showed more opulence on the nose and even a hint of viscosity on the finish. It will be fascinating to reexamine this "Janus" once in bottle.

The 2013 Romanée St.-Vivant shows off all the signatures of this site, with soaring aromatics, bright, chiseled red-toned fruit and an understated expression of intensity that is all about finesse. A model of precision and nuance, the RSV is one of my early favorites in the range. Clean, saline notes add to a feeling of refreshing vitality.

Good dark red. Soil-driven aromas of cherry liqueur, cocoa powder, mocha, earth and noble herbs. Wonderfully pliant and sweet on entry, then densely packed and tight for all its inner-mouth perfume. Flavors of dark berries and dried flowers are lifted by ethereal dark spices. An outstanding expression of soil, this very suave wine finishes horizontal and very long, with positive veggie and spice hints.

Transparent crimson. Very fragrant, showing the meatier side of red burgundy, hinting at possible gaminess to come. Fresh, crunchy redcurrant fruit in abundance. Great health and confidence. A bit more than medium weight with quite a charge of tannins. Great line. And persistence again. (JR)