The 1983 La Tâche Grand Cru from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is a vintage that to my knowledge, I have never encountered before. The growing season does not boast a top reputation, with many growers suffering rain-induced rot. It split commentators upon release and does to this day. This bottle contradicts some dismissive reviews that I have read elsewhere. Melted red plum, burning embers, hints of dried blood and black truffle unfold on the nose that develops more floral nuances with aeration. The palate is gentle and refined, well-balanced with pliant tannins, pretty red fruit with subtle sous-bois notes percolating up with time. Maybe it’s damning with faint praise but the sheer drinkability of this La Tâche resulted in the bottle being finished far quicker than intended. Isn’t that what wine is for?

PRODUCTION: 1,097 cases. The most controversial vintage over the last several decades, the 1983 reveals a dark ruby/garnet color with noticeable lightening at the edge. The intoxicatingly perfumed bouquet offers up intense aromas of earth, mushrooms, sweet, overripe black-raspberry fruit, prunes, smoke, and Asian spices. The complex aromatics are followed by a powerful, tannic, highly concentrated wine with immense body, some astringency, and a huge, alcoholic, rich, glycerin-dominated finish. While it is not the purest example of La Tache, it is one of the few great expressions of this vintage. It should drink well for another 10-15+ years, although the color will continue to become more degraded with aging.

Elegant nose of dried rose petals and no obvious hail taint with medium weight, slightly thinning flavors and a tannic, very dry and astringent finish. This is pleasant enough with very good richness if not much nuance and it has seen its best days and should be drunk while there is still buffering fruit.