Tasted at the La Tâche vertical at The Square. It was initially difficult to choose between the 1999 and 2002 La Tâche, but in the end the former just ascended to the stratosphere, while the latter simply cruised, albeit at a very high altitude. Now at 13 years of age, there is just a slight bricking on the rim. It feels a little more forward than the 1999–a stylish and personality-driven bouquet with predominantly red berry fruit interlaced with warm bricks and undergrowth (much more so of the latter compared to the 1999). The palate is beautifully balanced with exquisite tannin, perfect acidity and an effortless, you might say easygoing personality. That is deceptive because it is a complex and utterly harmonious La Tâche that is the epitome of elegance. Unlike the 1999, I would broach this now with an hour's decanting. Wonderful.

This is very reserved though determined swirling reveals a nose that is exceptionally fine and pure with fantastic aromatic detail and an almost diaphanous transparency of expression that reveals all of the kaleidoscopic La Tâche spice box nose, including anise, clove, plums, high-toned black cherry, crushed red raspberry and more. The broad, expansive and powerful flavors are quite strict on the mid-palate with massive depth yet the finish is round, generous, sappy and superbly complex with a finish that lasts for minutes. Despite the aromatic fireworks and opulent character, there is an underlying tenderness here that suggests that this will be approachable relatively early but the balance is so fine that this should easily age for 30 years, perhaps longer.

I am surprised by how delicate the 2002 La Tâche is, especially from magnum. Bright, crystalline and nuanced, the 2002 speaks more to energy and finesse than the more powerful, resonant expression of the year that is found in so many other 2002s. I like the 2002 a lot, but I don’t love it.

Soy sauce, candied blood oranges, and dark cherries make up the nose of the outstanding 2002 La Tache. Extremely elegant and pure, this light to medium-bodied wine displays a superb satiny texture and a broad blackberry, black cherry, spice, and mineral-flavored character. It boasts a refined, noble personality with an exceedingly long, supple finish. The qualitative and ripeness differences between this wine and the Richebourg is striking as well as confounding. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. Importer: Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA; tel. (707) 963-9661

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 30/06/2004 Soy sauce, candied blood oranges, and dark cherries make up the nose of the outstanding 2002 La Tache. Extremely elegant and pure, this light to medium-bodied wine displays a superb satiny texture and a broad blackberry, black cherry, spice, and mineral-flavored character. It boasts a refined, noble personality with an exceedingly long, supple finish. The qualitative and ripeness differences between this wine and the Richebourg is striking as well as confounding. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019.

From a barrel not yet racked: Good bright, full red. Pure cherry and berry fruit aromas verging on exotic. Sweet and dense but also impressively sappy and juicy, enlivened by floral and peppery nuances. Finishes extremely long and subtle, with a note of torrefaction. From a barrel that got microbullage three weeks prior to my visit: Pure, spicy, very expressive nose. Showing a bit more texture than the unracked barrel. Long, pure and powerful on the back. Not that different from the last sample. From a racked barrel: Pure but stunted; in a much drier phase.

This wine had been double decanted 90 minutes before I tasted it, at the tasting before a Zachy's sale at the Four Seasons restaurant. The strip label says this wine was shipped by Allyn & Scott Wines of London to Wine Cellars Ltd of Briarwood. Mid cherry red that's not that dense. Heady, gamey nose. Sweet start with excellent acidity. Sinewy and lively. Very friendly and approachable already. Smooth-textured with real lift. Lots of fun! (JR)