From a difficult vintage, the 2004 La Tâche is no slouch and offers beautiful fruit and surprising sweetness that makes it almost irresistible. Kirsch, raspberries, underbrush, dried flowers, and Asian spice characteristics are all backed up by a medium-bodied, nicely concentrated, seamless red that has light tannin and beautiful balance. It’s already drinking nicely and there’s no need to delay gratification, but it should keep easily for another decade.

This too is sublime in its subtlety and grace with ineffably pure aromas and it strikes a balance between the opulence of the RSV and the restraint of the GE with an expressive yet ultra fine nose of rose petals, violets and seductive spice notes that introduce unbelievably refined flavors that seem crafted from silk and lace, culminating in a linear, mouth coating finish that detonates like a bomb and lasts and lasts. At present, this is taut and precise with the lithe muscularity of a world class gymnast yet it is not lean or unduly tight as there is a generosity to the mid-palate that serves to buffer the underlying tannic spine that will permit this to age for decades. This is clearly a great wine that epitomizes the concept of power without weight.

(est. 900-$1,250) Good bright, deep red. Wonderfully perfumed, nuanced nose offers raspberry, smoke, earth, white truffle and this vineyard's typical cocktail of Oriental spices. Compellingly silky-sweet and suave on the palate, with great aromatic lift to the red fruit, spice and mineral flavors. This offers a rare combination of high and low tones on the nose and palate. Taut and sharply focused wine, finishing with superb, palate-saturating minerally persistence and great finesse of tannins. A great 2004.

Relatively pale a this early stage. Lovely broad, complex, flattering, autumnal notes on the nose and then very fresh and crystalline on the palate offering a sumptuous combination of that Tâche fan of rich violet flavours with refreshment too. Racy but far from skinny – more weight than the Richebourg. Very polished though perhaps not the weight of some really great vintages. (JR)