The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru is magical, mingling notions of mulberries, cherries and cassis with scents of bergamot, black tea, licorice, exotic spices and peonies. Full-bodied, rich and resonant, with a broad attack, huge mid-palate amplitude and a supple, seamless, elegantly muscular profile, this is a remarkably powerful but also profoundly complex, intellectually and sensually thrilling young wine.

The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru is very typically La Tâche. Plum, hoisin, spice and blood orange are all amplified in an explosive, massively backward La Tâche that will need 15-20 years in the cellar to start drinking well. As is so often the case, whole clusters lend an exotic spice quality that is front and center. The warm growing season has taken all the La Tâche signatures and amplified them, resulting in a dense, explosive Burgundy that will thrill readers lucky enough to own it for many decades to come.

The 2020 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked 30 August and 2 and 3 September at 29.7hL/ha. This has to be left for 5-10 minutes to unfurl. Complex nose, pressed flowers (peony and iris), hints of Lapsang Souchong and briary, this La Tâche has a cerebral nature that sets it apart. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins. The 2020 is an exquisitely sculpted and focused wine, the epitome of an iron fist in a velvety glove. Silky smooth in texture, a peacock’s tail on the finish with unerring mineralité, this is a divine La Tâche that will age over many many years. 1,237 cases produced. Tasted at Corney & Barrow’s annual in bottle tasting in London.

Transparent garnet. Spicy, rich depths but pretty uncommunicative on the nose – just a very slight roasted element. Just a little skinnier than usual. Or is it simply refined? It’s certainly very sleek rather than rich. Very pure, light tannic signature. Perhaps this is a cross between the usual Tâche style and the Richebourg’s transparency? It’s certainly different from previous vintages I can remember. A little stricter. (JR)