2015 Domaine Drouhin Laroze, Latricieres-Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2015 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is matured in 80% new oak. Apparently half of the vineyard was pulled up after the 2015 harvest due to superannuated old vines, but even so, there was still 40% less in this vintage (which implies there is bugger all in 2016). It has ample blackberry, bilberry and oyster shell scents on the nose, taking its time to gradually unfurl in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with black fruit, brisk tannin and fine mineralité, but it tightens up considerably towards the finish. More backward than the Chapelle-Chambertin, it deserves 4-5 years in bottle.

Cask sample. Headily sweet on the nose but not at all heavy on the palate. Real freshness and fun. Rather transparent and less sweet than some of the lesser appellations. Racy. Good expression. (JR)