(the crop level was just nine hectoliters per hectare due to hail, which was actually a bit higher than production in 2013): Pale yellow. Deep aromas of lemon oil, clove, mint, white pepper and iodiney minerality, with a touch of noble reduction. Dense, sappy and deep, with a saline crushed-stone flavor dominating. Best today on the clean, slowly mounting, white-peppery finish. This fruit was harvested over ten days, which necessitated numerous micro-vinifications. Today I pick up no evidence of the damaging late-June hail.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, Drouhin's 2014 Beaune 1er Cru Blanc Clos des Mouches was showing strong hazelnut and smoke aromas, very Meursault-like in style with good intensity if not exuding the grace of its peers. The palate is fresh on the entry, quite rich and intense with well-judged acidity. There remains some oak to be integrated, but it is certainly in proportion with the fruit and it feels very persistent on the finish. This has just edged up a notch in quality since I last encountered it.