Tasted from bottle, the 2016 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge has deepened and fleshed out since I tasted it from barrel, and today its superb potential is impossible to dispute. Wafting from the glass with a rich bouquet of raspberries, black cherries, rich soil tones and spices and deftly framed by toasty new oak, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy but vibrant, with a layered, textural mid-palate, velvety tannins and a long, precise finish. This is a serious, broad-shouldered Clos des Mouches that will offer a broad drinking window.

(average production in this large holding was 28 hectoliters per hectare, with potential alcohol ranging from 12.8% to 13.2% in the various lots; vinified with 25% whole clusters): Healthy medium red. Deep nose displays red and darker berries accented by spices, minerals and flowers; ultimately a bit blacker in character than the Grèves. Also more airy in the mouth, with a very fine-grained texture and harmonious acidity that makes the Grèves seem almost heavy by comparison. Lovely subtle inner-mouth perfume here. Finishes with nicely delineated fruit and spice notes, lively tannins and saliva-inducing minerality.

The 2016 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches offers broody red fruit laced with melted tar on the nose, sultry after the Grèves but with a pleasant oyster shell scent. The palate is medium-bodied with chunky ripe tannin. What it might lack in finesse, it makes up for in sheer substance and charm. Maybe I was just expecting a little more joie-de-vivre and complexity. Drink over the next 5-8 years.

Shy nose with only a hint of raspberry and cranberry fruit, plus generous oak. Fine tannins that give grip on the finish, and there's a strong soy and iodine savoury character that lingers too. Pretty tart and restrained. Almost eye-watering in its tension. (RH)

Cask sample. 15 months in oak. Mid crimson with some blue still. Some oak sweetness on the nose and a touch of smoky reduction but this blows off in the glass. Precise and elegant on the nose, very pure. This is beautifully elegant and finely concentrated. Opens up to be expressive. Darker fruited on the palate, with some graphite/mineral notes. Real elegance and subtle length. So moreish. So supple but not lacking structure. (JH)