The 2018 Beaune Clos des Mouches Rouge 1er Cru has a very pure, charming bouquet of layers of dark cherry, raspberry coulis and blueberry aromas, with just a touch of warmth from the slightly higher level of alcohol. The medium-bodied palate delivers saturated tannins. Lush and generous, almost New World-like in terms of fruit profiles, with a caressing finish. Lovely.

One of the portfolio's real successes, as is so often the case, is the 2018 Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches (Domaine). Wafting from the glass with inviting aromas of ripe cherries, raspberries and violets mingled with subtle hints of espresso roast and chocolate, it's medium to full-bodied, lavish and fleshy, with a voluptuous core of fruit that's framed by velvety tannins and succulent acids. An undeniably rich, ripe rendition of this emblematic cuvée, it will be best served a touch closer to cellar temperature than usual; if there's a criticism, it's that it's a little heady.

2021 apparently marks the 100th anniversary of Maurice Drouhin's purchase of his first parcel of the Clos des Mouches vineyard. In time he bought 41 different parcels from eight owners. Drouhin now own more than half of this 25.18-ha vineyard (both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir) in an increasingly appreciated appellation. The Drouhins' vines have been farmed biodynamically since 1993. An attractive, not excessive, level of smoky reduction on the medium-intense nose. Limpid and pure (meaning no trace of obvious oak) with a hint of liquorice. Excellent balance. It starts with sweet, juicy, quite subtle fruit but has an appetising dry finish with fine chalky tannins way in the background. Delicate in the Drouhin style but certainly not vapid. Medium persistence and already a great pleasure to drink. (JR)