The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Marquis de Laguiche is showing beautifully, wafting from the glass with aromas of golden orchard fruit, peach, confit citrus, honeycomb and toast. Medium to full-bodied, sumptuous and textural, it's satiny and enveloping, with a fleshy core underpinned by succulent acids, concluding with a nicely defined finish despite its gourmand, elegantly sun-kissed profile.

The 2018 Chassagne-Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) comes from a vineyard that tends to produce millerandé berries. This has an intense, powerful bouquet with hints of menthol permeating the citrus fruit, developing a more fumé style with time in the glass. The palate is well balanced with hints of passion fruit and peach on the entry, becoming spicier and subtly Muscat-like toward the very satisfying, persistent finish. Excellent.

One of the parcels that goes into this wine produces very small berries, apparently, thus increasing the concentration. Cask sample. Inviting, generous and spicy on the nose. Ripe citrus with a touch of almost-ripe apricot. Super-creamy and rounded in the mouth yet with good freshness. A little softer than the Genevrières and not as long but lovely balance already. (JH)