Pale-medium red. Raspberry, rose petal and caramel oak on the nose; grew purer and more floral with aeration. Began sweet and seamless but a bit diffuse, but showed a sappier quality and lovely violet and rose lift as it opened in the glass. A firm edge of acidity provides good shape, but give this wine some air if you plan to open a bottle anytime soon.

From their estate’s usual far-flung assemblage of crus (I did not taste this year’s dedicated bottling from Les Baudes), Drouhin’s 2008 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru boasts ripe, fresh cherry and strawberry tinged with cinnamon and smoky black tea, suggestions of leather and forest floor becoming more prominent as part of a satisfyingly long, spicy, sweetly-fruited finish. I would anticipate at least 7-9 years of interest here, but there looks to be no risk in enjoying some young, too. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770