Drouhin's 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru is superb, wafting from the glass with an appealing bouquet of raspberries, plums, licorice, spices and dried rose petals that exemplifies the appellation at its best. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, with superb concentration and depth, striking purity of fruit and juicy balancing acids, concluding with a long, precise finish. This routinely excellent cuvée—which is mainly made from estate fruit—continues to fly a bit under the radar, so readers would do well to seek it out.

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru comes from six lieux-dits . It has a vibrant blackberry and raspberry bouquet, touches of pressed iris and undergrowth developing with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied but with a little more amplitude than the Vosne-Romanée, if not quite the same sensuality toward the finish. Hopefully it will gain a little more terroir expression by the time of bottling.

Cask sample. Mid to deep cherry red. Peppery and lightly stemmy in its fresh dark-red-fruit aroma. Delicate tannins, such finesse and harmony already. Refined and long. Supple but all in proportion. Moreish, full of fruit but delicate at the same time. (JH)