For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The Droins' parcel of Blanchot is being replanted, so the grand cru range begins with the 2021 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir, a pretty, elegant wine redolent of vine blossom, white peach and waxy lemon rind. Medium to full-bodied, suave and satiny, with racy acids and a pure, fine-boned profile, it's showing well.

The 2021 Chablis Vaudésir Grand Cru evolves in the glass, opening with sea spray and Crustacea scents that complement the fresh pear and nettle aromas. Fine delineation and the oak takes a backseat here. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. There is a bit of wood to be subsumed towards the finish but there is fine weight and depth, a touch of spice and lemongrass enlivening the finish. Very fine in the context of the vintage. Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting.