(35% vendange entier ): Medium red. Alluring aromas of black raspberry, coffee, game and earth. Supple and quite fresh in the mouth, with its berry, spice and floral flavors complemented by a hint of gamey reduction. This very silky wine spreads out nicely to fill the mouth without giving any impression of heaviness, thanks to surprising acidity. Best today on the long, rising finish, which features firm but suave tannins and lingering floral character.

The 2016 Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru was reduced to just four hectoliters this vintage. It includes 20% whole cluster fruit and will spend 16 months in oak. It felt a little muted at first but soon found its voice with pretty crushed violet-tinged blackberry and cassis fruit. I like the delineation here. The palate is well balanced if not as nuanced or refined as the Clos de Vougeot, more masculine than its peers with a saline finish that lingers. Good, but not the greatest this year.

Cask sample. 16 months in oak. 60% whole cluster. Three barrels only. Mid greyish cherry red. Compared with the Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, much sweeter fruited on the nose. A lovely contrast of sweet fruit and savoury, peppery spice on the palate. Dry, fine-grained texture. The stems have given a delicate herbal note and a finesse to the texture but overall, going back to this, I find a slight austerity needing bottle age to flesh out. (JH)