The 2020 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru Hommage à Louis has a refined and focused bouquet. The oak is deftly integrated and has impressive mineralité considering the growing season. This is powerful and quintessential Les Clos. The palate is fresh on the entry with a concentrated and weighty opening. Fresh orange rind and light mandarin notes, cohesive with well-integrated oak, feel dense and grippy on the finish. Superb. Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting.

For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

As a result of an ongoing dispute with the INAO—who contend that part of the Droin family's historic parcel of Les Clos, named as such on the cadastre and always labeled accordingly, is in fact Valmur—the domaine's Clos is appearing this year as the 2020 Chablis Grand Cru Hommage à Louis. Exhibiting aromas of fresh orchard fruit, peach, honeycomb, toasted nuts and bee pollen, it's full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with a seamless, multidimensional profile and a long, expansive finish.

From a special plot at the junction of Valmur and Les Clos. Fresh, racy, high-toned nose. Real cut and thrust! Very impressive indeed – though unfortunately no bargain. Manages to have both grand cru weight and Chablis refreshment value. Creamy texture with no shortage of acidity. (JR)