For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

The 2018 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru is an ample, creamy and super-expressive wine. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers and minty notes all flesh out in a Chablis endowed with striking depth and resonance - all qualities that build into the long, beautifully persistent finish. This is one of the bigger premiers crus in the range, but it also retains terrific freshness and vibrancy.

The 2018 Chablis Montmains 1er Cru shows a little more definition and terroir expression compared directly with the Montée de Tonnerre. Lemon peel, touches of crushed stone and dried flowers almost reluctantly emerge with aeration. The palate is powerful and expressive, with a honeyed texture. The acidity feels a little lower than previous vintages and you would almost think there was a touch of botrytized fruit on the finish. It’s a Montmains that I would broach in its youth.

This has attractive peach and peach-kernel aromas with hints of flint and almond pastry. The palate has a very fleshy and succulent feel with apricot, mango and yellow-peach flavors. A steely-mineral spark below. Drink on release.

Tank sample. More lemony on the nose. More simple in aroma but there's a nice steeliness on the palate. Chewy texture and lovely tension even with plenty of ripe citrus. Long too. (JH)