The 2009 Montrachet Grand Cru is now beginning to flex its muscles. It was an “easy vintage,” according to Véronique Drouhin, cropped at 20hl/ha from September 15. Appearance-wise, it is similar to the 2011. The bouquet is surprisingly tight at first but then opens its arms with just a few swirls of the glass, offering heady scents of honeysuckle and yellow flowers and a touch of crushed pebble underneath. The palate boasts impressive precision considering the warmth of the growing season. Wonderful penetration and drive are evident here. Grilled walnut and nutmeg emerge toward the finish. Just superb. Tasted at the Montrachet vertical in London.

The 2009 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche explodes from the glass with intense layers of tropical fruit, passion fruit, butter, spices and vanillin. It is a totally engaging wine, with endless waves of flavors that build towards the dramatic finish. This is a decidedly exotic wine that captures the essence of the year. Is is perhaps the most ‘2009’ wine in this lineup. This parcel, which is just a bit larger than two hectares, sits on the Puligny side. Anticipated maturity: 2014+.

Antonio Galloni (Wine Advocate #196, Sept 2011)

(14.6% alcohol): Medium yellow. Oily aromas of nectarine, apricot, smoke, ginger and marzipan. Large-scaled and expansive Montrachet, with sexy stone fruit, spice and dusty mineral flavors showing no rough edges. This is almost too big for the mouth! More exotic notes of pineapple and honey emerged with aeration. Finishes with plenty of dusty minerality. I'd give this five years in the cellar, but I wonder if it has the tautness or tension for a long evolution in bottle.

Very serious – silly price! Dense and rich. Solid. Pretty impressive. Long and rich and gorgeously flattering. (JR)