(a blend of parcels; some of these vines are now being replanted): Deep aromas of white peach, gunflint, clove, iodine and white pepper. Penetrating, spicy wine with terrific mineral spine and thrust. Expands impressively in the mouth, conveying a strong impression of dry extract and energy. Nothing fat or heavy about this Montrachet--and no easy sweetness either. Delivers a captivating balance of fruit, minerality and acidity and finishes with resounding length and serious kick.

The 2015 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru was stubbornly backward and broody on the nose: hints of yellow flower and struck flint. Nosing this felt like I was disturbing its prenatal slumber. The palate had more to say. It is well balanced with a brush of honey on the entry, a keen thread of acidity, a hint of spice with a composed yet straight-laced finish that I find less expressive than the Corton-Charlemagne at the moment. Let's see how this turns out in bottle. It's a Montrachet, though that does not necessarily mean it is Drouhin's finest white this vintage.

Sample. Elegant, rather than as concentrated as the Corton-Charlemagne. Very savoury and opens up rather gloriously on the end, but at the moment it's not a knockout. Perhaps it should have been served before the massively dense Corton-Charlemagne? (JR)