The 2018 Montrachet Grand Cru comes from the two-hectares on the Puligny side, comprising five parcels vinified separately (although I tasted the final blend). It has a very pure bouquet and, especially for Drouhin, an intense bouquet of lanolin, walnut and pressed flower aromas that if anything becomes even more powerful with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with superb balance, almost symmetrical, and just the right amount of salinity. This is a vibrant, precise Montrachet with touches of sea salt and ginger toward the very persistent finish, which fans out with brio. Deeply impressive.

This isn’t strictly speaking a domaine wine from Joseph Drouhin, but the contract with the Marquis de Laguiche is so long that it might as well be. Showing impressive concentration, yeasty, textured weight, delightful 25% new wood and notes of beeswax and lanolin, it finishes with freshness, minerality, commendable poise and some skin-tannin grip.

Close to Chassagne. 2 ha owned by the Marquis de Laguiche, in five parcels and picked at different times. About 30% new oak. Cask sample. Smells intense, rich and somehow regal. Super-ripe fruit – volume and richness in the mouth. Deep, long and generous. A big, full-bodied and intense wine but with the spiced freshness to balance. Lots of spice. Terrific wine in a big, rich style. (JH)