So ripe, but also deep and delicate, this is a masterpiece of creamy sensuality, the considerable power and concentration underplayed, with the result that it has noble elegance. Yes, there is a hint of exotic fruit in the nose, but also minty freshness. The finish is very long and intense, but so finely nuanced. Drink or hold.

The 2019 Montrachet Marquis de Laguiche Grand Cru is very promising, wafting from the glass with aromas of orange zest, honeyed pears, white flowers, citrus blossom and toasted almonds. Full-bodied, concentrated and enveloping, it's rich and layered, with huge depth at the core and a long, saline finish.

The 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) is very intense on the nose, featuring subtle licorice scents tucked behind the citrus fruit; this seems to expand with aeration. The palate is beautifully balanced with a playful entry of apricot and quince. It builds beautifully in the mouth, revealing hints of crème brûlée and almond shavings toward the well-defined finish. Hints of chai tea and grilled hazelnut swirl around on the aftertaste. This is a long-term Montrachet. 

Very generous of them to share samples of this! They have five very varied, especially in terms of vine age, parcels over 2 ha. 30 – 40% new oak. Cask sample on lees, to be bottled early 2021. Rather dumb on the nose compared with the Morgeot at the moment. Smooth texture and still extremely youthful with remarkable acidity. They say they are not looking for weight but for elegance and certainly this wine isn't as hefty as most other Montrachets. It’s rather a shame to taste this now but there is fabulous depth and length and it certainly builds towards the finish. (JR)