Whole-cluster fruit and aged for 16 months in oak, the 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières has an extravagant bouquet with touches of mint and fennel infusing the citrus fruit, although I would have liked a little more austerity. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp acidity, admirable weight in the mouth, with touches of white peach and orange sorbet toward the finish. I find this is just trying a little too hard, expending too much effort in trying to live up to the reputation of the vineyard.

Pale yellow. Aromas of citrus peel and botanical herbs suggest an intense but austere wine. Then rich, toasty and deep on the palate, with apple and citrus flavors framed by a strong spine of acidity and minerality. A touch austere on the back end, but also with a stimulating sappy quality and a subtle sweetness. This wine is aging in 30% new oak.

Strong reduction completely flattens the fruit and renders an evaluation of the nose impossible. On the plus side there is outstanding intensity to the mid-palate of the overtly stony middle weight flavors that culminate in a focused, clean and markedly dry finish. 2013 is a relatively powerful vintage for this normally restrained and cool wine and I particularly like the underlying tension as it invites another sip. Drink 2021+ (June 2015)

Among the first to ripen. Harvested 2 October. Spiced and lightly mealy citrus aroma plus a cool stony minerality and a touch herbal. Tightly coiled, so zesty and full of energy with a touch of green citrus rounded out by the mealy character and overall elegant. Oaky flavour on the very end. Very precise. (JH)