Pale, bright yellow. Tight, bright aromas of lemon-lime, grapefruit pith and crushed stone. Pliant on entry, then adamantly minerally and firm in the middle palate and dominated by its structure. But this very intense, fine-grained wine really resounds on the finish. Very closed today but has the balance and backbone to age gracefully.

The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières has a refined bouquet, perhaps not quite delivering that payload of mineralité that I was expecting, yet precise and detailed. The palate is fresh on the entry with grapefruit and lemon zest, a pleasant bitter edge here with a linear, energetic finish. This is very fine, though I think the remaining élevage until March 2016 will lend it the weight it needs.

14 months in oak. Not yet bottled. Distinctive nose, as if there were a touch of botrytis, although I know they have strict sorting of fruit. Ripe and orange/apricot flavours on the palate, but still bone dry, smoky, tight and very fresh. (JH)