2008 Joseph Drouhin, Musigny Grand Cru

Drouhin’s 2008 Musigny in expected fashion puts its stable mates in perspective with a multiplicity of ripe red berry; saline and chalky mineral; seductively floral; pungently spicy; cleanly carnal; and mysteriously scrubby and forest floor-like aromas and flavors. A near-kaleidoscopic interactivity enhances the invigoration, resonance, and refreshment of an archetypical wine of its appellation and vintage that should be well worth following for 20 years. “2008 was very slow in doing its malolactic – which was good, and ended up with a pretty lively impression of acidity” remarked Veronique Boss-Drouhin, “and I think the wines will be slow to evolve in bottle, as well.” Numerous cuvees were still in tank or barrel when I visited in March, which constitutes an unusually late schedule at this address. The 2007s, by contrast, were bottled even earlier than normal, most at age 12 months. In 2008, a 15-25% share of stems and whole clusters was included in the fermenting vat for the Clos des Mouches and for most of the Drouhin grand crus, whereas in 2007 that degree of vendange entier was practically the rule across the entire Drouhin range (by no means all of which I tasted). Importer: Dreyfus-Ashby & Co., New York, NY; tel. (212) 818-0770

(vinified with 25% whole clusters) Good bright ruby-red. Sweet nose currently dominated by raspberry and minerals; less high-pitched today than the Bonnes-Mares, but there are intriguing mineral and underbrush nuances lurking. Wonderfully broad, ripe and sweet for the year, with primary berry flavors framed by firm acids and lifted by pepper and blood orange elements. Boasts terrific breadth of flavor and richness but is not yet showing the definition of the Bonnes-Mares. This will need a good eight to ten years of cellaring to fully express itself and should be long-lived.

The 2007 Musigny Grand Cru is perhaps more mature in appearance than expected, with leather and game infusing the red fruit, and a tad more rustic than the 1999 or 2002. The medium-bodied palate delivers red currant, cranberry and wild strawberry notes, and firmer tannins than expected, borrowing some of the masculinity of the 1996. Yet with aeration, after an hour in the glass, it becomes fleshier and divines more complexity, wrapping up with black pepper and tobacco on the finish. Very fine, but earlier-drinking than other recent vintages. Tasted at the Drouhin Musigny vertical in London.