Scents of wild berries, cassis, peonies, licorice and potpourri preface Duband's 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru, a full-bodied, fine-boned and elegant wine with a lovely spine of acidity, refined tannins and a concentrated core of fruit. Deep and incisive, this might be the domaine's finest grand cru in 2018, though it faces stiff competition.

Vines 50 years old. 90% whole bunch, 40% new oak. Barrel sample. Mid cherry. Cold sample. Pretty aroma of crushed strawberries with a touch of pepper. An aroma I can’t put my finger on, perhaps slightly floral. Super-fine and fresh from the tannins as much as from the acidity. Really tight, sinewy, alive, long. Very long – but you have to be aware of Duband’s style that can be quite obviously stemmy when the wines are (too) young. (JH)