An ethereal, totally sexy wine, Dugat's 2012 Griotte-Chambertin lifts out of the glass with the most exotic, perfumed bouquet imaginable. How can I put the rest of the wine back in the barrel? It is virtually impossible. The Griotte is silky, finessed and beautifully layered in the glass. Rose petal, sweet red berries, mint and cinnamon are some of the many nuances that linger on the sublime finish. What a gorgeous wine this is. Incidentally, a recent bottle of the 2007 was spectacular.

Bright, dark red. Complex but reticent nose offers lovely lift to the aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, iron, minerals and medicinal herbs. Dense and sweet but a bit shaken up today and not as explosive as the Charmes. But this wine's sappy tautness reminded me of a 2010. Most impressive on the juicy whiplash of a finish, which leaves behind an unflagging perfume. Serious aging potential here.