Unwinding in the glass with notes of cassis, wild plums and red berries that are complemented by nuances of peonies, heather and dark chocolate, Dujac's 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is full-bodied, deep and incisive, its tight-knit core structured around fine but chalky tannins and tangy acids. Firm and introverted, as is so often the case, it has superb potential and will reward the patient, but readers considering purchasing this serious Bonnes-Mares should count on exercising over a decade's patience before opening bottles.

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is quite closed and broody on the nose, or at least it was on the day of my visit to the _ domaine_. Dark red fruit, cranberry and raspberry aromas reveal scents of crushed stone and damp autumn leaves. The nicely structured, medium-bodied palate features tea leaf and bay leaf on the entry. Midway through, it delivers the precision and openness you expect from this vineyard, then goes on to demonstrate superb clarity on the aftertaste. This is a lighter style of Bonnes-Mares and yet it will still need time in bottle.

Average 85% whole bunch. Very big crop in 2017. Barrel sample. Bright cherry red. There is that red-fruited beauty here but it is hiding a little at the moment and there’s a sweet ripeness and spice. Depth of fruit but you could miss it because of the lively fresh character. Lots of energy and a hint of stems as the wine opens. Fine, chalky tannins that melt on the finish. Scented beauty to be fully realised – but you won’t need to wait too long. (JH)

Tasted blind. Transparent shaded ruby. Autumn mulch on the nose. Fragrant, heady and on the palate some real sweetness. Very charming and drinking well now. Quite long and tarry. (JR)