2017 Domaine Dujac, Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

Dujac's 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is more reserved that the Clos Saint-Denis, unwinding in the glass with scents of red berries, plums, orange rind, cinnamon, peonies and sweet soil tones. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, serious and layered, with muscular structure, lively acids and a long, perfumed finish. While this remains a comparatively accessible, finesse-driven Clos de la Roche, at least a decade's patience will be required to see this begin to realize its potential.

The 2017 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a precise, beguiling bouquet of raspberry and wild strawberry fruit, cold stone and sea spray scents, plus a touch of dried blood. The medium-bodied palate displays slightly chewy tannin on the entry and good depth. This is quite masculine in style, leading to a potent, saline finish, yet I would aver it does not quite have the depth or penetration of the previous two vintages. That said, it is still a finely crafted Clos de la Roche, though I find the Clos Saint-Denis romping ahead (at least in barrel).