The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru had been racked the day prior to my visit. That said, the bouquet is very well defined, offering black cherries, raspberry, rosemary and pressed rose petal aromas that blossom with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, good depth and precision, revealing bitter cherry and a touch of balsamic toward the finish. Very good potential.

Northern end of Vosne. This wine was often foursquare in the past, explains Jeremy Seysses, but it’s getting more refined since they have been farming biodynamically (since 2001), whereas Charmes-Chambertin became more muscular with biodynamics, which reinforces personality, suggests Seysses. Barrel sample. Mid cherry red. Less open than Les Beaux Monts just tasted. This is rather muscular, compact, powerful but clearly picked at perfect ripeness – it is rich and dark and so spicy but with pure fruit and freshness even with all this power. Deep, full in the mouth, harmony in power. (JH)