Dujac’s 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Combottes is simply wonderful. For some reason, I don’t buy the Combottes regularly. Tasting this bottle makes me wonder why. Lifted, perfumed and sensual, with striking layers of dimension, the Combottes does what only Pinot can do, and that is convey richness without weight. Captivating and so inviting, the 2014 is fabulous on this night.

Medium red. Sexy high-toned scents of strawberry, coffee and dried rose. At once dense and lively on the palate, with red berry flavors accented by pungent spices and graphite minerality. Still a bit youthfully tough but the tannins spread out horizontally to dust the palate on the persistent back end. This sappy premier cru needs time.

The 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru aux Combottes, which includes around 80% whole bunch fruit, has a fragrant, floral bouquet that opens wonderfully in the glass: mineral-tinged black fruit that is very delineated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine saline seam, quite Morey-Saint-Denis in style, a little foursquare on the finish. I like the precision here in this Gevrey-Combottes that is somewhat sturdy, but with impressive detail.

Sweet and round. Jewelly fruit and with more transparency than many. Refined with definite sweet-chestnut character. (JR)