The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is quite reduced on the nose, sultry and quite stemmy at the moment, though I think it will improve with age. The palate is medium-bodied with a savory opening, modest depth and quite dry tannins. Truffle and dark chocolate appear toward the finish, which feels just a little dry, but maybe it will come good with bottle age. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2017 tasting.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Aux Combottes is showing well, offering up an appealing bouquet of dark wild berries, raspberries, warm spices, sweet soil tones and a subtle framing of cedary wood. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with an expansive attack, sandy structuring tannins and juicy acids. It's a charming, supple Combottes which will offer a broad drinking window.

Average 85% whole bunch. Barrel sample. Scented and lifted with lovely aromatic purity. Open and fragrant. (We note that it is a fruit day.) Firm, compact texture. Ultra-pure and with dry finesse. Showing its finest today (Jeremy Seysses points out how much it changes from day to day). Just lovely. (JH)