Revealing aromas of dark plums and cherries mingled with baking spices and orange zest, the 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru is medium to full-bodied, supple and charming, with a velvety attack that segues into a rich core of fruit that's framed by powdery tannins and lively acids. As ever, it's the sleeper of the Dujac portfolio.

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru comes from three or four different lieux-dits that are vinified together. This is a significant step up from the Village Cru: much more depth and vigor, blackberry and wild hedgerow, bilberry and just a hint of black olive. The medium-bodied palate has quite firm tannins on the entry with mainly black fruit plus cracked black pepper and sage. There’s fine grip, and it is quite dense, but it conveys precision on the sustained finish. I can see 15 to 20 years of drinking pleasure, but it needs four or five years in bottle.

From Les Ruchots, Les Charrières and Les Millandes. 40% new oak. Cask sample. Deep-mid ruby. Red and dark cherry. Cassis. Ripe fruits on the palate; luxurious. Ripe tannins, integrated and balanced. Acidity is very fine (again). (MH)