The 2009 Morey St. Denis is quite a bit fresher and more vibrant than the négociant Gevrey. Sweet dark red berries, flowers, mint and licorice are some of the many notes that take shape in the glass. There is a coolness to the Morey that is especially appealing in this vintage. Jeremy Seysses told me he did a couple of extra punch downs here because of the higher amount of old-vine fruit in this bottling. It worked. This is a hugely rewarding village-level Morey.

Tasted at the Domaine. The fruit is a little subdued at the moment with some grassy aromas taking their place. The palate is medium-bodied with a touch of hardness on the entry, although the finish has fine definition and poise. Hopefully the aromatics will improve with aeration. Tasted November 2010.

Medium red. Reticent nose offers black cherry and menthol. Then sweeter and suppler than the last; more approachable today but offers only moderate nuance. The mid-palate is lifted by brown spices. Finishes with dusty, slightly drying tannins.