(there are 25 barrels of this juice, vs. a normal 50, due in large part to the effects of the December '09 frost): Good deep red. Pure, complex nose offers black raspberry, mocha, brown spices, mint and game. Dense, spicy and fine-grained; creamy-sweet but given shape by harmonious ripe acidity. This attractive midweight is more generous today than the Gevrey.

The 2010 Morey St. Denis is a touch firmer than the Gevrey, and also shows darker tonality in its red fruit. Dried flowers, mint and licorice are layered into the energetic finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. These are three attractive wines from Jeremy Seysses’s negociant operation. For general vintage commentary readers may want to refer to the introduction to the Domaine Dujac reviews. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724