Bright, deep red-ruby. Precise but restrained aromas of cassis, black raspberry, violet and licorice. Powerful, slightly peppery acidity gives this wine a youthfully tight structure, but there's just enough buffering sweetness here to provide balance. A distinctly powerful style of Charmes (like the '09 here) with a very long, floral finish displaying excellent lift. I'd like to come back to this one in ten years.

The 2008 Charmes-Chambertin is virtually impenetrable. This is a decidedly cool, inward Charmes in need of considerable time in bottle. It couldn't be more different than the subtle, expressive 2009.

100% new oak. 15-20% whole bunch. Again a lack of aroma – I wonder whether tasting in such a warm cellar (for MLF) has an effect. This contains a third Mazoyères. Very juicy and succulent fruit on the palate. Certainly very glossy and charming even though at the moment there is still a little bit of fizz. MLF finished in Aug. (JR)