Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques has a generous bouquet with crushed strawberry and cranberry notes, sous-bois and fern developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. This is crisp and focused, the fruit a little darker towards the finish with black plum and blackberry emerging. It is fairly reserved in style but it carries itself well. One for those not seeking tons of fruit (as is typical of the Duroché style) but this has pedigree. Tasted September 2016.

Healthy dark red. Deep aromas of raspberry, smoked meat, gunflint and mocha, with complicating notes of truffle, leather and underbrush. Fat, rich and pliant, showing an attractive restrained sweetness to its flavors of raspberry, redcurrant, game and underbrush. The Champeaux is more airy but this is rounder and plumper, not to mention larger-scaled. Finishes with silky, nicely supported tannins.

Mid crimson. Terrific fruit freshness and intensity on the nose. Dark cherry. Quite light on the mid palate but there's a dark-fruited harmony and attractively light, dry tannins. (JH)