The 2017 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru is developing beautifully in the cellar, gaining in texture and dimension as I predicted it would. Bursting with notes of sweet berry fruit, cassis, dark chocolate and forest floor, it's medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, with lively acids, melting tannins and—like many of the best 2017 red Burgundies—concentration and amplitude that far transcends what was apparent in barrel. There's still considerable upside here; and even though this is very charming today, it merits patience.

The 2017 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has quite a "bullish" nose with blackberry, wild hedgerow, clove and autumn leaf aromas that stride out of the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a fresh line of acidity, touches of orange rind tincturing the red berry fruit. This gently builds in the mouth to a fairly intense red berry, autumn leaf and tobacco tinged finish that lingers for 45 seconds. Excellent.

A more elegant, cooler and more restrained nose hesitantly gives up its array of plum, violet, lavender, spice and freshly turned earth scents. There is excellent punch and detail to the even stonier medium weight plus flavors that culminate in a chiseled, youthfully austere and very serious finish. This will require at least some patience as it's quite firm.