Deeper-pitched than the ethereal, charming 2017, the 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru unwinds in the glass with aromas of wild berries, cassis and black raspberries, complemented by rich bass notes of licorice, loamy soil and black truffles. Full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it's layered and elegantly muscular, with more tannin and fruit than the 2017 or even the 2015, all the while remaining controlled—indeed, in the context of the vintage, even restrained. This is a superb proposition for the cellar, but now is not the time to be opening bottles.

The 2018 Latricières-Chambertin Grand Cru has a much more complex and engaging bouquet compared to the Charmes-Chambertin, a smorgasbord of ebullient red berry fruit laced with minerals and wilted rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannins and a brisk line of acidity. Fresh and vibrant with gentle grip toward the finish. This is an outstanding 2018 from Pierre Duroché that will give 20 to 30 years of drinking pleasure. Superb.

Tank sample but about to be bottled. Dark cherry red. An inviting combination of ripeness and mineral/stoniness. Crushed rocks over black fruit. Elegant not showy. Tight, dry and dancing on the palate – even in youth. Juicy and surprisingly approachable. Dry, paper-fine tannins. Not a powerhouse though all in balance. (JH)