For reports and full tasting notes, go toTim Atkin MW's website.

From a parcel contiguous with Duroché's tiny holding of Griotte-Chambertin, the 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois offers up notions of dark fruits, cherries, rich soil and raw cocoa. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, with tangy acids, bright fruit tones and superb length on the fragrant finish. This superb wine exemplifies the Duroché style and is surely the insider's choice in the range.

A small tail of the village lieu-dit Aux Etelois separates the grands crus of Charmes-Chambertin and Griotte-Chambertin, and it is here that the Duroché vines, planted in 1961, are situated. Notes of creamy red and black cherry and wild plum mingle with incipient hints of rich soil, introducing a supple wine with superb depth, tension and length. It's the most elegant village bottling in the portfolio.