The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois contains 15% whole bunch. That makes a difference on the nose compared to the Les Jeunes Rois; this is more peppery and more complex, touches of clove and bay leaf coming through with aeration. The palate is framed by fine-boned tannins, clean and precise, with wonderful transparency toward the finish. Premier Cru in all but name.

Revisited in bottle, the 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Aux Etelois is showing brilliantly, bursting with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, orange rind and cherries. Medium to full-bodied, ample and perfumed, it's bright and vibrant, with lively acids and a long, saline finish. At only 13% alcohol, it's also impeccably balanced.

Very small calcaire parcel just north-east of Charmes-Chambertin. Very different from the Brochon plots. One of their earliest-picked vineyards. Some of the parcel, the lower bit, goes into the Gevrey village wine. Some vines planted 1964 and yielding only 20 hl/ha or even less. Tank sample. Some real depth and grunt here. Cough sweets and a beginning, middle and end. Long. (JR)