Pale yellow. White pepper, menthol and fresh herbs on the lively nose. Nicely balanced if on the lean side, showing lovely cut and definition to its brisk flavors of lemon oil, orange zest and spices. Firm but not hard. (Ente's Bourgogne Aligoté offers an aromatic nose of orange oil and flowers and a chewy, sappy palate impression, with a surprisingly fleshy old-vines richness to buffer its impression of tautness. It will be worth seeking out. And his Bourgogne Chardonnay, made in a more opulent, even slightly exotic style, is sweet and fine-grained for its appellation, with yellow peach, tangerine and floral flavors leading to a rich, spicy but firm finish. I rated this wine 87-88.)

Tank sample. 60% fruit from En l'Ormeau and 40% from Les Casse-Têtes. Racy and lightly smoky with great freshness and tension. More than a nod to Coche-Dury here. Masses to chew on. This deserves much more than a village score. Very throbbing end. (JR)