The 2015 Meursault Clos des Ambres from Arnaud Ente is brilliant. Fresh and vibrant on the nose, with light touches of sea spray, this is tight and focused, just like the ’14. The palate has real mineral drive, quite Puligny-like in terms of its malic finish and flinty aftertaste. Whilst secondary market prices have been insane, there is no doubting the calibre of this Meursault. Tasted at the 05/15 Burgundy dinner in The Good Earth.

(from vines planted in the early 1950s): Bright, pale yellow. Ripe, fruity aromas of yellow peach, orange juice and lemon. Sweet and opulent but with good inner-mouth tension; a seductive fruit bomb of a Meursault with a seamless texture. Round, broad and mouthfilling without heaviness, and considerably riper and larger-scaled than the basic village offering.

Tank sample. This is a selection from En l'Ormeau. Some strong minerality on the nose. Then richness on the palate. Very tense and lively. That menthol note again. Magic winemaking! Or maybe magic vine growing! (JR)