The2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques is wonderfully alive. Layers of fruit flesh out on the palate in this intense, structured Clos St. Jacques. There is a level of sweetness and sheer inner perfume that is hard to capture in words. This is a fabulous effort from Sylvie Esmonin, but it remains decidedly on the young side. The Clos St. Jacques saw 100% new oak.

Good ruby-red. Captivating nose combines black fruits, bitter chocolate, sweet oak and pungent stony minerality, with wild suggestions of fresh blood and game. Backward and quite taut, with outstanding intensity to the sappy black fruit flavors. Hints of pepper, herbs and spices contribute to the impression of energy. Soil-driven savory, salty finish displays excellent length. Sylvie Esmonin believes this wine needs at least a year to absorb its oak, but I'd wait five or six.

The 2008 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, which was matured in 90% new oak, has plenty of fruit on the nose with red cherries, cassis and rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, quite solid in the mouth with touches of leather and black pepper infusing the black fruit, quite saline on the finish. This could do with more time, but I feel it is not up there with Esmonin's best.