The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru includes 50% whole bunch fruit and matures in 60% new oak. It has an intense bouquet with notes of blackberry, blueberry, crushed stone and hints of graphite, the terroir showing through nicely here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit and gentle grip. I feel the new oak taking a more backseat role compared to previous vintages, that allows the terroir to really show through on the precise finish. This is an excellent Clos Saint-Jacques from Sylvie Esmonin.

60% whole bunch (a bit less than usual). Deeply coloured (though quite hard to see in the gloom of the cellar). This wine has always been easy to taste, says Esmonin, even when embryonic. Lovely sweet, dark, dusty, lightly oaky nose but all savoury and dark fruited. There’s power here but also a round ripeness in the tannins. Suave with power underneath. Deep and intense but no excesses. Smoky and dark fruited. Long and deft and self-assured but not showy. Super-elegant, noble darkness. Moreish and mouth-watering. (JH)