2014 Sylvie Esmonin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Vieillles Vignes

(50% vendange entier ; 50% new oak): Bright red-ruby. Shows more smoky oak and less obvious fruit on the nose than the regular village offering, plus complicating notes of espresso and minerals. A step up in texture and depth, though, with the middle palate showing more energy and the dusty tannins saturating the palate on the lively finish. More powerful and ageworthy than the basic village Gevrey.

The 2014 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes has a respectable bouquet for the vintage with a little more fruit intensity than its peers: blackcurrant and light raspberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with red berry fruit, wild mushroom and light black pepper notes. There is a little dryness that just creeps in towards the finish. It's not bad, though I would drink bottles in the near future.

Vines are more than 60 years old but some have been replaced. Some Clos Prieur in here. Obviously very superior to the village wine. Lots of tannin but also masses of attractive floral aromas. (JR)