The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes offers dusty black fruit on the nose. It needs to demonstrate a little more Pinoté character, although pleasant floral scents do emerge with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. Lower acidity than its peers, it is a dense Gevrey-Chambertin with moderate grip, but like the Village Cru, it needs to show more Pinoté on the finish, which is muscular at the moment.

60% whole bunch, more new oak than on the straight village wine. Vines 60+ years old though some vines have been replaced, some will soon be celebrating their centenary. More marl on this site and more power and tannin. Clos Prieur premier cru parcel is included here. Dark and spicy on the nose, very Gevrey. Elegant and refined, the tannins have power but also precision. Tight and so fine, so fine. Subtle, savoury beauty in its dark, shaded character. (JH)