Bright medium red. Deep, musky nose combines cranberry, raspberry, cardamom, faded rose and crushed stone. Sweet, seamless and energetic, offering almost painful cut to the tart red berry, spice and musky underbrush flavors. Outstanding savory lift in the middle palate. Wonderfully lightness of touch here. Very backward wine with all the Cos de Bèze food groups: red fruits, minerals, spices, flowers, crushed stone. Stains the palate and leaves the taste buds quivering on the very long, firm finish. But still a baby today and in need of a decade of cellaring.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Chambertin Clos de Bèze Grand Cru from Faiveley has a pleasantly austere and reserved bouquet, fine mineralité underneath, aromatics that simply need time in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp acidity and an appealing edginess. Impressive tension here as black fruit merges with red towards the structured finish that expresses the terroir with style, although it tends to clam up in the glass. It should give two decades of drinking pleasure. Tasted September 2016.

Mid crimson. Refined aroma of subtle dark-red fruit. Refined on the palate too – cool dark fruit, super-fine texture and lovely harmony in a lighter elegant style, making the most of the vintage. (JH)