Lots of roses and spice make this seductive, in spite of its youth. Rich and very suave with very polished tannins, which build to form a tidal wave at the supple finish. Better from 2022.

The 2017 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru comes from a single hectare that came from Faiveley’s purchase of Dupont-Tisserandot. The parcels lie right across the road from Chambertin, and the vines are around 70 years old, although they were due to be pulled up the week after my visit, since they are becoming unproductive. This has a slightly smudged, floral bouquet that gains clarity with aeration, but does not quite have the delineation of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and good grip, quite Mazoyères-like in terms of structure, and an attractive spicy finish. It maybe just lacks the finesse of the very finest Charmes-Chambertins.

Cask sample. Light to mid crimson. Rather unusual on the nose, almost a touch medicinal, like cough linctus; oak spice too. Much tighter and slightly leaner than the Grands Echezeaux. More elegant. (JH)