The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru opens in the glass with notes of white flowers, Meyer lemon, fresh pear, nutmeg and warm bread. Full-bodied, layered and muscular, it's a concentrated, serious and tightly wound wine that's built around chalky dry extract and tangy acids. This is very promising.

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a very tight bouquet that struggles to follow the excellent Bâtard-Montrachet; it feels a bit mute at the moment. The palate is balanced with strong lime and orange cordial notes on the entry and good acidity, yet I find this a little monochromatic on the finish – it doesn’t really take you anywhere.

Barrel sample. Tight – very tight – and leaner than many wines from this appellation used to be. Was it picked early? It’s almost too lean at the moment! Chalky finish. (JR)