The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has turned out very well indeed, wafting from the glass with a lovely bouquet of dark wild berries, smoked meats, incense, spices and dark chocolate that's framed by a lavish but nicely integrated application of high-quality new oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and velvety, with a layered and impressively concentrated core, melting tannins and a long, sapid finish. It's one of the highlights of Faiveley's red portfolio this year, punching above its weight in the usual hierarchy.

The 2017 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru comes from a parcel that Erwan Faiveley candidly said is less consistent, at the mercy of the weather and dependent on a dry season. It has a charming, quite effervescent bouquet of raspberry and cranberry fruit infused with candied orange peel. A tangible sense of mineralité develops with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, displaying gentle grip, good structure and maybe a little more detail and tension than the Echézeaux at the moment. Good potential.

Cask sample. Mid cherry red. Pretty, sweet-fruited and seductive. Generous and already velvety on the palate. Sweet-fruited on the mid palate, deep-fruited and long. (JH)