The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers comes from Faiveley’s substantial four-hectare parcel. I find this has more gumption and detail than the Lavaux Saint-Jacques at the moment. The nose features layers of blackberry, raspberry and crushed stone aromas, and the sweet, candied palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin. Blood orange and quince infuse the red fruit toward the finish. Excellent.

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers is a little shy after its recent bottling, opening in the glass with aromas of wild berries and orange rind that are framed by a generous application of new oak. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and elegant, with lively acids, fine and powdery tannins and a precise finish. This is never going to challenge the lovely 2016 rendition, but by contrast, it will show all its cards with minimal bottle age.

Cask sample. Mid cherry red. Peppery and raspberry red fruit. Tight, elbows in, quite strict in its fine tannin/acid structure and with just enough fruit in the middle. Lacks generosity overall. (JH)